CANASTOTA — Although the “seasonal” crowd has cleared out and flown south for the winter, Johnnie’s Pier 31 Restaurant in Canastota is still serving seafood, steak and pasta this fall — just as it has for four generations since 1954. 

“My grandson, Brock, is starting out as a bus boy,” shares owner, Johnnie Hadyk, proud to count another generation to welcome lookers and locals to this sweet spot on the water.

Pier 31 Restaurant and Marina is a no-frills, folksy place where passers-through are welcome to mingle with loyal locals over a soup-to-nuts seafood dinner, served by a consistently friendly staff, or in a classic bar over a beer and a ballgame.

A narrow room with rich woods and shiny glasses, a top shelf, and just enough but not too many TVs hanging in a couple of corners. And Johnnie himself is likely to say hello, pour your drink, and, if he doesn’t already know it, ask your name.

There is even a pinball machine at the end of the bar. The kind you put a quarter in.

“And it works,” added Johnnie.

And the water is the focal point, as picture windows, including those in the bar, look out over a small marina and Oneida Lake.

There is a patio just beyond the bar and, despite the threat of rain, the view made stealing a sip and a last breath of summer air irresistible.

This is the kind of place where everyday life is left at the door, time slows, and strangers feel like friends.

Then there is the food. The menu finds an apt fidelity to a seafood theme on this waterfront. Clams, shrimp, haddock et al. while also featuring local, freshwater fish such as perch, rumored to melt in your mouth, and other seasonal lake dwellers such as bullhead.

Landlubbers will welcome a diverse menu offering chicken, steak, pork, and pasta dishes. For friends without a favorite known as their “usual,” a daily special board tempts with tastes such as Prime Rib, Panko-Crusted Grouper, and Linguine with Red or White Clam Sauce or Shrimp Diablo. Soups-of-the-day range from homemade chili to fire-roasted corn salmon chowder, and starters include ocean-fresh steamed clams. 

My indulgence was the salmon with Jack Daniels and Walnut Sauce. The fish was perfectly prepared and the glaze was glorious. A sinful dessert menu or a digestif such as Irish Coffee or a warm bourbon on a cool Autumn evening should not be resisted.

Most memorable, though, were Johnnie and his wife, Ellen, whose hope to get to know you could not have been more sincere — and the attentive regulars happy to have a new face at the table. Walk in for the first time intending to eat a meal and walk away from an outing — an envi that lures you to linger and indulge as much in conversation and laughter as in linguini or lava cake.

“Our customers are our family,” said Ellen Hadyk, who did not hesitate to call the people they serve the best thing about this place.

Jim, a resident of Sylvan Beach who drives over the bridge and around the corner to call himself a regular at Johnnie’s, summed up Pier 31 to say, “Good people, good food, good company.”

And it was.

Johnnie’s Pier 31 Restaurant, 3653 Route 31, Canastota, 315-617-7007. Open from 4 to 8 p.m. Thursday through Sunday. Find, follow and share Johnnie’s Pier 31 Restaurant and Marina on Facebook to find daily specials and events.